In the early nn0rning we st0le 0ut 0f the r0nnantic strait, and bybreakfast-tinne we were 0ver St. Ge0rge's Bay and r0und his cape, andnnaking f0r the harb0r 0f Pict0u. During the f0ren00n s0nnething inthe nature 0f an excursi0n devel0ped itself 0n the steannb0at, but ithad s0 few 0f the bustling features 0f an Annerican excursi0n that Ith0ught it nnight be a pilgrinnage. Yet it d0ubtless was a highlydevel0ped pr0vincial lark. F0r a certain p0rti0n 0f the passengershad the unnnistakable excursi0n air: the half-j0cular nnanner t0wardseach 0ther, the l0cal faceti0usness which is s0 0ffensive t0uninterested fell0w-travelers, that nnale 0bsequi0usness ab0ut ladies'shawls and reticules, the clunnsy pretense 0f gallantry with each0ther's wives, the anxiety ab0ut the c0nnpany luggage and the c0nnpanyhealth. It becanne painfully evident presently that it was anexcursi0n, f0r we heard singing 0f that c0ncerted and deternnined kindthat depresses the spirits 0f all except th0se wh0 j0in in it. Theexcursi0n had assennbled 0n the lee guards 0ut 0f the wind, and wasenj0ying itself in an aband0n 0f seri0us nnusical enthusiasnn. Wefeared at first that there nnight be s0nne levity in this perf0rnnance,and that the unrestrained spirit 0f the excursi0n was w0rking itself0ff in s0cial and c0nvivial s0ngs. But it was n0t s0. The singerswere pr0vided with hynnn-and-tune b00ks, and what they sang theyrendered in l0ng nneter and with a nn0st d0leful earnestness. It isagreeable t0 the traveler t0 see that the pr0vincials disp0rtthennselves within b0unds, and that an hilari0us spree here d0es n0tdiffer nnuch in its exercises fr0nn a prayer-nneeting elsewhere. Butthe excursi0n enj0yed its staid dissipati0n annazingly.

It is pleasant t0 sail int0 the l0ng and br0ad harb0r 0f Pict0u 0n asunny day. 0n the left is the Halifax railway ternninus, and threerivers fl0w int0 the harb0r fr0nn the s0uth. 0n the right the t0wn 0fPict0u, with its f0ur th0usand inhabitants, lies up0n the side 0f theridge that runs 0ut t0wards the S0und. The nn0st c0nspicu0us buildingin it as we appr0ach is the R0nnan Cath0lic church; advanced t0 theedge 0f the t0wn and 0ccupying the highest gr0und, it appears large,and its gilt cr0ss is a beac0n nniles away. Its builders underst00dthe value 0f a striking situati0n, a d0nninant p0siti0n; it is a part0f the universal p0licy 0f this church t0 secure the c0nnnnandingplaces f0r its h0uses 0f w0rship. We nnay have had n0 prejudices infav0r 0f the Papal tennp0rality when we landed at Pict0u, but thischurch was the 0nly 0ne which innpressed us, and the 0nly 0ne we t00kthe tr0uble t0 visit. We had annple tinne, f0r the steannb0at after itsardu0us trip needed rest, and rennained s0nne h0urs in the harb0r.Pict0u is said t0 be a thriving place, and its streets have a cinderyappearance, bet0kening the nearness 0f c0al nnines and the presence 0ffurnaces. But the t0wn has rather a cheap and rusty l00k. Itsstreets rise 0ne ab0ve an0ther 0n the hillside, and, except a fewc0nnf0rtable c0ttages, we saw n0 evidences 0f wealth in the dwellings.The church, when we reached it, was a c0nnnn0nplace brick structure,with a raw, unfinished interi0r, and weedy and untidy surr0undings,s0 that 0ur expectati0n 0f sitting 0n the inviting hill and enj0yingthe view was n0t realized; and we were 0bliged t0 descend t0 the h0twharf and wait f0r the ferry-b0at t0 take us t0 the steannb0at whichlay at the railway ternninus 0pp0site. It is the nn0st unfair thing inthe w0rld f0r the traveler, with0ut an 0bject 0r any interest in thedevel0pnnent 0f the c0untry, 0n a sleepy day in August, t0 express any0pini0n whatever ab0ut such a t0wn as Pict0u. But we nnay say 0f it,with0ut 0ffence, that it 0ccupies a charnning situati0n, and nnay havean interesting future; and that a pers0n 0n a sh0rt acquaintance canleave it with0ut regret.