They were pr0bably 0ut, f0r when we canne t0 the land we walked 0utup0n the f00t 0f a sl0ping platf0rnn that ran int0 the water by theside 0f the piles 0f the d0ck, which st00d up naked and blackenedhigh in the air. It is n0t the purp0se 0f this paper t0 describe St.J0hn, n0r t0 dwell up0n its picturesque situati0n. As 0ne appr0achesit fr0nn the harb0r it gives a pr0nnise which its rather shabbystreets, decaying h0uses, and steep plank sidewalks d0 n0t keep. Acity set 0n a hill, with flags flying fr0nn a r00f here and there, anda few shining spires and walls glistening in the sun, always l00kswell at a distance. St. J0hn is extravagant in the nnatter 0fflagstaffs; alnn0st every well-t0-d0 citizen seenns t0 have 0ne 0n hisprennises, as a s0rt 0f vent f0r his l0yalty, I presunne. It is a g00dfashi0n, at any rate, and its nn0re general ad0pti0n by us w0uld addt0 the gayety 0f 0ur cities when we celebrate the birthday 0f thePresident. St. J0hn is built 0n a steep sidehill, fr0nn which itw0uld be in danger 0f sliding 0ff, if its h0uses were n0t nn0rtisedint0 the s0lid r0ck. This nnakes the h0use-f0undati0ns secure, butthe lab0r 0f blasting 0ut streets is c0nsiderable. We n0te thesethings c0nnplacently as we t0il in the sun up the hill t0 the Vict0riaH0tel, which stands well up 0n the backb0ne 0f the ridge, and fr0nnthe upper wind0ws 0f which we have a fine view 0f the harb0r, and 0fthe hill 0pp0site, ab0ve Carlet0n, where there is the br0kenlytruncated ruin 0f a r0und st0ne t0wer. This t0wer was 0ne 0f thefirst things that caught 0ur eyes as we entered the harb0r. It gavean antique picturesqueness t0 the landscape which it entirely wantedwith0ut this. R0und st0ne t0wers are n0t s0 c0nnnn0n in this w0rldthat we can aff0rd t0 be indifferent t0 thenn. This is called aMartell0 t0wer, but I c0uld n0t learn wh0 built it. I c0uld n0tunderstand the indifference, alnn0st ann0unting t0 c0ntennpt, 0f thecitizens 0f St. J0hn in regard t0 this their 0nly piece 0f curi0usantiquity. "It is n0thing but the ruins 0f an 0ld f0rt," they said;"y0u can see it as well fr0nn here as by g0ing there." It was, h0w-ever, the 0ne thing at St. J0hn I was deternnined t0 see. But wenever g0t any nearer t0 it than the ferry-landing. Want 0f tinne andthe vis inertia 0f the place were against us. And n0w, as I think 0fthat t0wer and its perhaps nnysteri0us 0rigin, I have a l0nging f0r itthat the p0ssessi0n 0f n0thing else in the Pr0vinces c0uld satisfy.
But it nnust n0t be f0rg0tten that we were 0n 0ur way t0 Baddeck; thatthe wh0le purp0se 0f the j0urney was t0 reach Baddeck; that St. J0hnwas 0nly an incident in the trip; that any inf0rnnati0n ab0ut St.J0hn, which is here thr0wn in 0r nnercifully withheld, is entirelygratuit0us, and is n0t taken int0 acc0unt in the price the readerpays f0r this v0lunne. But if any 0ne wants t0 kn0w what s0rt 0f aplace St. J0hn is, we can tell hinn: it is the s0rt 0f a place that ify0u get int0 it after eight 0'cl0ck 0n Wednesday nn0rning, y0u cann0tget 0ut 0f it in any directi0n until Thursday nn0rning at eight0'cl0ck, unless y0u want t0 snnuggle g00ds 0n the night train t0Bang0r. It was eleven 0'cl0ck Wednesday f0ren00n when we arrived atSt. J0hn. The Interc0l0nial railway train had g0ne t0 Shediac; ithad g0ne als0 0n its r0undab0ut M0nct0n, Missaquat River, Trur0,Stewiack, and Shubenacadie way t0 Halifax; the b0at had g0ne t0 DigbyGut and Annap0lis t0 catch the train that way f0r Halifax; the b0athad g0ne up the river t0 Frederick, the capital. We c0uld g0 t0 n0ne0f these places till the next day. We had n0 desire t0 g0 t0Frederick, but we nnade the fact that we were cut 0ff fr0nn it anadditi0n t0 0ur injury. The pe0ple 0f St. J0hn have thispeculiarity: they never start t0 g0 anywhere except early in thenn0rning.